Berluti: Allegorical Unfolding revealed in the Spring/Summer 2026 Collection

Berluti unveils a special presentation of its rich leather goods history and inspiring journey
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Berluti returned to the Simone & Cino Del Duca Foundation in Paris’s 8th arrondissement for its Spring/Summer 2026 showcase, a setting steeped in heritage and savoir-faire. The 19th-century townhouse, overlooking Parc Monceau, shares a surprising link with the Maison: Torello Berluti, son of founder Alessandro Berluti, and Cino Del Duca both hailed from Italy’s Marche region, arriving in Paris just years apart to build their respective legacies.

Berluti delivers a unique presentation of its Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Champ-contrechamp style

Founded in 1975, the Simone & Cino Del Duca Foundation has championed the arts, literature, and sciences across France and beyond—a vision that resonates with Berluti’s century-old pursuit of serving a global clientele. From artists to scientists, writers to actors, politicians to business leaders, Berluti has long been a destination for those who appreciate remarkable style from head to toe.

 

For its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, the luxury Maison unveiled Champ-contrechamp—French for shot/reverse shot, the film move that flips between two angles around the same point (often to catch both sides of a conversation). This unique presentation highlights the precision and passion behind Berluti, where each shoe, bag, or jacket hides subtle details only connoisseurs can spot—true marks of excellence.

Across three storeys, the collection unfolds. Playing as a metaphor for Berluti’s style, this back-and-forth of perspectives pulls lucky visitors deeper into the Berluti universe with each turn, reveal, and initiation—because what’s inside is nothing short of wonderful.

 

Step through the grand archway and you’re greeted by a silhouette that instantly draws attention. Follow the gaze into the Grand Salon, where a monumental foot—rivalling Michelangelo’s David—stands as a testament to Berluti’s century-long expertise in the science of the foot. Scattered measurement sheets reveal Berluti’s meticulous craft—mapping every contour, from a high instep to a protruding fifth metatarsal—shaping every part with flawless precision. With a total of 28 bones, 27 joints, 23 muscles, and 100 ligaments, the foot is an anatomical marvel and the foundation of shoemaking artistry.

Visitors then enter the Cordovan Room, dedicated to the fine leather woven into Berluti’s history since its founding. Like his father Torello, who taught him leatherworking at the young age of 15, Talbinio Berluti possessed exceptional skill in cutting, a craft still honoured today at the Berluti Manifattura in Ferrara, Italy. A hide displayed on a table illustrates the artisans’ precision in selecting and cutting leathers—Venezia for shoes, full-grain calfskin for patinas, “saddle soft” leather for jackets, and suede for the Forestière.

For anyone wanting to discover Scritto leather, a library is the best place to do so. Inspired by a 1771 handwritten notarised deed, this Berluti signature features calligraphy laser-etched into the leather’s grain, lending the same poetic touch to everything from oxford lace-ups to cigar cases, polo shirts to overcoats, just to name a few.

 

Guided by a shaft of light, visitors reach the first floor, where the Salon Vigny becomes a vibrant candy box for Jour de Poche—a compact, hands-free bag for essentials. Since debuting leather goods in 2005 with a briefcase, then the iconic Deux Jours travel bag, Berluti has applied the same blend of function, aesthetics, and purpose to its accessories. Jour de Poche retains the Jour line’s hallmarks—Venezia leather, off-centre zipped pocket, and leaf-shaped tab—in a design merging a Japanese inro with an overnight bag.

The journey ends at the Salon Orange, showcasing Berluti’s ultra-light Shadow sneaker—just 450 grams, about the weight of two apples. Nodding to René Magritte’s surrealism, the display reads “Ceci n’est pas une charentaise” (“This is not a slipper”), alongside designs blending style and innovation. The Shadow slips on like a loafer but features a lace-up upper, cooling mesh, and a shock-absorbing memory foam sole for featherweight comfort.

The townhouse’s second floor overlooks Parc Monceau, offering a perfect setting to appreciate Berluti’s versatile head-to-toe style—equally at home with formal lace-ups or sneakers. A standout is the Forestière jacket, striking in midnight blue or lilac linen with an aloe vera finish, or in lime-green serge wool. Other striking highlights include a fresh twist on summery tweed, woven from cashmere, wool, cotton, silk, and linen for a look as original as it is exquisite—a true testament to Berluti’s effortless elegance.

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Issue #99

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Summary

Berluti: Allegorical Unfolding revealed in the Spring/Summer 2026 Collection

  • Historic Setting with Shared Heritage | Berluti presented its Spring/Summer 2026 collection at the Simone & Cino Del Duca Foundation in Paris, a 19th-century townhouse linked to Berluti’s Italian roots and steeped in artistic and cultural legacy.
  • Theme: Champ-contrechamp | The collection, titled *Champ-contrechamp* (“shot/reverse shot”), emphasized perspective shifts, showcasing Berluti’s attention to hidden details and connoisseurship in its craftsmanship.
  • Craft and Materials | Installations highlighted Berluti’s expertise: a monumental foot sculpture symbolizing shoemaking precision, the Cordovan Room dedicated to fine leathers, and Scritto leather etched with 18th-century calligraphy.
  • Signature Accessories | Accessories took center stage with Jour de Poche, a versatile hands-free bag blending Japanese and European design influences, and the ultra-light Shadow sneaker, combining innovation, surrealist inspiration, and comfort.
  • Versatile Style and Elegance | The presentation closed with head-to-toe looks: Forestière jackets in bold finishes and summery tweed mixes of luxury fibers, embodying Berluti’s effortless sophistication across formal and casual wear.