When precision meets grandeur, what was historically impossible in time-telling turns into endless probabilities. Pioneering its way to the frontier of watchmaking, Franck Muller has proven this to be true since the exceptional complication master Franck Muller and jeweller Vartan Sirmakes joined hands in 1991. Among many of its breakthroughs and silhouettes, the Cintrée Curvex has become a defining feature of many of the haute horologist’s creations. Now adopted for the new Vanguard, Franck Muller’s latest timepiece tests the bounds of light and shadow, akin to chiaroscuro in an illustrious painting.
Just like its predecessors, the stainless steel case of the latest Vanguard is welded into the classic tonneau silhouette of the Cintrée Curvex. Measuring 42.5 mm x 52.7 mm, with a thickness of 9.3 mm, the case houses a captivating dial that screams understated luxury. The intentional placement of its white larger-than-life hour appliques and the exaggerated widths of the stainless steel case give the model a unique fisheye effect. Against the bold-toned dial, the simple white numerals and hands ensure maximum readability. Whilst the stylish hour numerals do catch one’s attention, it is actually what lies beneath that the brand prides itself in.
After much anticipation, Franck Muller integrates a new tantalising dial for its Vanguard collection. The guilloché pavé de losanges dial leverages a seemingly endless diamond motif to capture light in an indescribable way. Well-versed in crafting state-of-the-art pieces, Franck Muller’s craftsmen brought such an intricate dial to life using a thorough multi-stage stamping process only they can achieve. While the choice of geometric shape emboldens the look of the new Vanguard in green, its expression completely shifts in the other equally compelling variations in grey, navy, black and brown.
As the guilloché pavé de losanges dial does its job in refracting light, the haute horologist balances its complexity with a micro-blasted sunburst orb at the heart of the watch. It is from here that the modern hour and minute hands stay rooted, mere millimetres away from the Franck Muller name. Beneath the sunburst plate at 6 o’clock is a simple date window that completes the Vanguard’s functions. The entirety of the dial is framed by a slim white border that separates it from the bead-blasted matt bezel, which displays the 60-minute/second marks, the collection name, and its automatique and Swiss made marks. Each variation is paired with a sleek alligator strap with hand-sewn stitching that matches the shade of its dial.
To drive the Vanguard, Franck Muller embeds the robust MVT 2536-SCDT bidirectional automatic movement at its core. Boasting a 42-hour power reserve, the ultra-thin movement vibrates at 28,800 vph. Crafted out of 191 components, it is adorned with high quality finishings and décor executed by the haute horologists’ exceptional craftsmen. In addition to the Côtes de Genève on its bridges and rotor plate, perlage and bevelling were also used in other components of the movement.
Beyond the Vanguard collection, the Franck Muller name has been much talked about among watch collectors since its inception in 1991. The eponymous brand was established by Franck Muller and Vartan Sirmakes in their pursuit for fine watches and complications. The partnership between haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie experts resulted in groundbreaking discoveries. Over a decade after its establishment, Franck Muller became the first in the world to develop a tri-axial tourbillon when it unveiled the Revolution 3. The complication was followed by the unveiling of the Cintrée Curvex silhouette, its own esteemed watch fair, and much more.
