At the 35th edition of the World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie (WPHH), held at the Domaine du Grand Malagny in Geneva from April 1 to 5, 2025, Franck Muller unveiled a refined new chapter in the evolution of its iconic Vanguard collection: the Vanguard Sfumato Slim. Inspired by the subtle beauty of twilight and the artistic heritage of Renaissance Italy, the new timepiece reinterprets the bold Vanguard aesthetic through a more restrained, elegant, and contemporary lens.
Founded in 1991 by master watchmaker Franck Muller and entrepreneur Vartan Sirmakes, the Geneva-based manufacture has built its reputation on groundbreaking complications, distinctive case designs, and a commitment to independent watchmaking. While the brand is often associated with exuberant numerals and highly technical creations, the Vanguard Sfumato Slim demonstrates a different side of Franck Muller’s creative identity—one that prioritises atmosphere, emotion, and understated sophistication.
The redesign centres on the concept of “sfumato,” the celebrated artistic technique popularised by Leonardo da Vinci, where colours and tones blend seamlessly without harsh outlines. Translating this idea into watchmaking, Franck Muller has created a collection of dials featuring soft gradient transitions that appear to dissolve into the edges of the case. The effect evokes the fleeting moments between day and night, when light softens and colours melt into one another. Unlike previous Vanguard models, which are renowned for their oversized numerals and sporty visual presence, the Vanguard Sfumato Slim adopts minimalist indexes, allowing the dial’s nuanced colour play to take centre stage.
Equally significant is the watch’s slimmer profile. Measuring 41 mm in width, 49.95 mm in length, and only 9.1 mm thick, the new model offers a noticeably more refined wrist presence while retaining the recognisable tonneau-shaped Vanguard architecture. The streamlined proportions create a more versatile and elegant character, appealing to collectors seeking contemporary luxury with everyday wearability.
The collection is available in eight versions, combining four dial colours with two case materials. The dial options comprise Blue, Olive, Grey, and Brown, each offered in either 18-carat rose gold or stainless steel. Every dial features a sunray-brushed finish enhanced by multiple layers of lacquer and a Zapon varnish coating, producing the signature sfumato gradient effect. Matching coloured inserts on both sides of the case further reinforce visual continuity, while colour-coordinated leather straps complete the monochromatic aesthetic.
Powering all eight references is the automatic Franck Muller calibre MVT FM 708-S6. Composed of 125 components, the movement measures 29.9 mm in diameter and 3.73 mm in thickness, operating at a frequency of 21,600 vph. It delivers a power reserve of approximately 42 hours and displays hours, minutes, as well as a small seconds indication positioned at 6 o’clock. Visible through the sapphire crystal case back, the movement showcases traditional decorative finishes including Côtes de Genève on the bridges and rotor plate, perlage on the mainplate, bevelled components, sunray brushing, snailing, circular satin finishing and satin brushing.
The case is fitted with sapphire crystals and offers water resistance to 30 metres. Enhancing both aesthetics and comfort is the integrated leather strap system, secured using concealed screws rather than conventional spring bars. This construction creates a seamless transition between case and strap while maintaining the distinctive ergonomic qualities for which the Vanguard collection is known. Depending on the version selected, the strap is paired with either an 18-carat rose gold or stainless steel buckle.
More than simply a slimmer Vanguard, the Vanguard Sfumato Slim introduces an entirely new visual language within the collection. Through its atmospheric gradient dials, pared-back design, and elegant proportions, Franck Muller transforms the passage of time into a poetic expression of light and shadow—capturing the beauty of those rare moments that linger long after the sun has disappeared beyond the horizon.
