Set beneath the historic glass roof of the Grand Palais, a massive black ribbon installation soared dramatically above the runway for CHANEL’s Fall-Winter 2025/26 Ready-to-Wear show, paying tribute to Coco Chanel’s fondness for bows and ribbons in her design process. Created by scenographer Willo Perron, the surreal set became the perfect backdrop for a collection that played with proportion, volume, and silhouette—blurring the lines between fantasy and reality, just like a theatre where illusions beckoned.
For the Fall-Winter 2025/26 season, CHANEL revisits some of its most beloved signatures. Starting with the bow, the ribbon, the pearl, and the camellia, all making striking appearances as models walked the runway. Delicate bows in every size, blooming on collars like soft pink camellias, peeking from blouse cuffs, layered across necklaces, and even wrapped around the ankles of a dazzling black puffer and sweatpants set. This season, nothing is off-limits.
A long white knitted ribbon is wrapped around a black sweater and tied into a bold bow sitting neatly on the shoulder. Bows continue to steal the spotlight this season, whether voluminous or cut-out, popping up on dresses, cardigans, and sweaters alike.
The collection also shakes things, bringing a bold twist through a play on proportions: exaggerated lengths, oversized silhouettes, and hybrid designs like cape-jackets and coatdresses. It is CHANEL tailoring reimagined—a mini jacket in blue, white, and pink tweed is paired with floor-grazing trousers, a crisp poplin shirt stretches all the way to the ankles, and a cropped black tweed jacket trimmed with braid transforms into a long coatdress, complete with jewelled buttons. Even the cape comes with jacket cuffs.
This season, CHANEL plays with contrast and balance through extensive sheer layering—using illusion tulle to soften and elevate classic tailoring. A champagne, black or white tweed suit is offset by a diaphanous flounced cape in black or white tulle, adding airiness to structure. Next, a black tulle blouse and skirt float over an ecru trouser suit, while a long white tulle shirt with puffed sleeves wraps around an ecru jacket-dress. These transparent overlays blur the lines between silhouette and structure, creating a quiet drama of movement and depth.
Romantic at heart, this collection also reimagines structure with soft, feminine details—from chiffon jeans and silk that mimics tweed, to ribbon motif prints floating in the wind and a hooded parka in black organza embellished with bows. It doesn’t stop there: sock-ankle boots and satin bouillonné along the length of the vamp of a pair of shoes heighten the feminine elegance. Removable ruff-collars resembling corollas, black wool lace trench coats inlaid with enhanced faux fur, and black sweaters with 3D white petal plastrons punctuate the collection with a poetic touch.
For accessories, heels are fascinatingly perched on a single pearl, giving the illusion of weightlessness and elegance. A crossbody bag takes the form of an oversized pearl necklace, blurring the lines between jewellery and utility. Mini bags also make a charming appearance, offering just enough room for essentials while doubling as playful style statements. Meanwhile, a bold set of rhinestone-studded jewels leans unapologetically maximalist.
The show drew a slew of A-listers, each putting their spin on CHANEL’s house codes. Camila Cabello played it classic in a tweed set, while Dakota Fanning went the opposite route in a golden blazer and matching trousers that shimmered with nonchalant cool. Simone Ashley, of “Bridgerton” fame, looked breathtaking in a cropped tweed jacket and matching mini skirt, and South African pop star Tyla turned up the drama in fuchsia co-ords, pairing a strapless corset top with a mini skirt and cropped cardigan. Meanwhile, Thai actor Norawit “Gemini” Titicharoenrak made a case for laidback chic in light-wash flared jeans and a dapper embroidered jacket.
A poetic tension between softness and structure, fantasy and reality, the collection is a reminder that the Maison still orbits around fairy tales and never fails to use the imagination to conjure up sublimely beautiful collections.
