For ZEGNA’s Winter 2025 show in Milan, the luxurious brand pays homage to a mindset where creativity and nature move as one with a collection named the Vellus Aureum. Models wandered over rolling green hills, evoking the vast Australian landscapes—their gentle curves a metaphor for the continuity between man and nature, and for the threads that connect distant worlds and crafts.
For Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori, fashion is as much about behaviour as it is about design. In his work, the way we create and the way we wear are intertwined, driven by a constant pursuit of refinement, a conscious eye, and a dialogue between innovation and tradition.
This season, Vellus Aureum draws inspiration from the very wardrobe of founder Ermenegildo himself—not just in spirit, but in the silhouettes he loved. Those signature shapes serve as the blueprint for key pieces and constructions, bringing his personal style into the modern conversation.
This season’s silhouette takes a softer, more deconstructed turn where volumes wrap around the body, proportions are reimagined, and bold macro patterns and donegal motifs from the archives anchor the play on scale. For instance, deconstructed blazers sit low with two-button closures, oversized coats with plush cashfur collars hit just at the knee, and roomy blousons feature either lapels or stand-up collars with elasticated waists. But, of course, knitwear steals the spotlight: deep V-necks reveal neatly layered shirts, low-slung diagonal pockets invite hands to slip in, and chunky jumpers and cardigans are tucked effortlessly into high-waist trousers.
Remember the notchless shirt from spring? It’s back in a refined knit, while cashmere and cotton corduroy give suits a plush yet structured edge. Washed Oxford tailoring carries that perfectly lived-in charm, as though it’s already lived a lifetime of stories. Meanwhile, ZEGNA’s signature Il Conte jacket continues its evolution, appearing in shearling, as a sleek gilet, and in a chore-style Oasi Cashmere jersey—ideal for your winter sojourn.
ZEGNA’s footwear takes centre stage in Vellus Aureum, blooming in sleek, modern forms. Chunky-soled loafers pair effortlessly with tidy eyeglasses and supple shoulder bags, amplifying the collection’s relaxed, slouchy ease. The palette plays out like a tonal symphony—fossile, ginepro, dark foliage, serra, castoro, Gattinara red, and falesia—accented with Sessera, arnica, giglio montano, terracotta, and sharp nero opaco. Elsewhere, textures are deeply tactile yet irresistibly soft, from wool cashmere and cashmere cotton corduroy to wool mohair cover, flannel wool, as well as plush Oasi Cashmere.
The story behind Vellus Aureum runs deep. Back in 1963, founder Ermenegildo Zegna launched the Wool Trophy Awards in Australia, championing woolgrowers in their quest to produce the world’s finest fleece. Each year, from this extra-fine wool, an extraordinary thread is spun, weaving the lightest, softest, most exquisite fabrics imaginable.
Today, Vellus Aureum is the crown jewel of ZEGNA’s textile mastery—its name a nod to the legend of Jason and the Argonauts and their quest for the Golden Fleece, depicted as a winged ram. For ZEGNA, Vellus Aureum is more than a fabric; it’s a symbol of the relentless pursuit of excellence, a legacy passed from one generation to the next, blending entrepreneurial spirit with timeless style. To date, the Vellus Aureum world record for a single wool fleece was reached in 2023 with a fineness of just 9.4 microns.
“In this collection, items are nonchalantly chosen and spontaneously mixed recounting an encounter of generations in the name of Italian style. Working with washed wools and Vellus Aureum we have been able to transfer lived life into the garments. There is something quintessentially “Torinese” to this collection, in the cultured attitude the shapes suggest and the insouciant manner they are worn, which is a particular way of being Italian,” said Alessandro Sartori.
Where Vellus Aureum serves as ZEGNA’s emblem of prestige and excellence, its style and substance are traditions passed down through generations. It’s the very essence of ZEGNA , seamlessly weaving past, present, and future into one continuous thread.
