Cartier: Signature Creations in the Santos de Cartier Baguette

Cartier puts a focus on the remarkable expertise of its artisans in its new timepieces launched at Watches & Wonders 2025
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One of the foremost luxury brands in the world, Cartier has a long history of crafting unique products. Time and time again, the distinguished manufacture has showcased an incredible understanding of what makes a watch or a piece of jewellery truly exceptional to the extent that many of its creations have gone down in history as priceless icons. 

 

This year, the Maison revisits one of its most beloved timepieces, the Santos de Cartier. A model that combines classicism with pioneering spirit, it boasts a purity of design, geometric elements as reflected in its square-shaped case, and technical innovation that we have all come to expect of the brand.

 

Inspired by the first wristwatch designed for trailblazing aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos de Cartier is a true symbol of the manufacture’s prowess in haute horology. Honouring this rich legacy, Cartier unveils a new reinterpretation, aptly named the Santos de Cartier Baguette.

Santos de Cartier Baguette with blue leather strap
Santos de Cartier Baguette with blue leather strap

Crafted of 750/1000 rhodium-finish white gold, the Santos de Cartier Baguette measures 47.5 mm x 40 mm, with a thickness of 9.1 mm. Highlighting a silvered dial with sunray effect, the iteration features archetypal Cartier elements such as the Roman numeral indexes, railway minute track, and sword-shaped steel hands.

 

Powered by the 1847 MC mechanical movement with automatic winding, the watch is water-resistant to 3 bar (30 metres) and comes complete with interchangeable grey and navy blue alligator leather straps. A small silvered date display window is located at 6 o’clock.

 

Though the design of the Santos de Cartier Baguette is representative of the brand, for this latest offering, Cartier contemplated on how to enrich the historic model and present it in a novel way. After much deliberation, the esteemed Maison turned to the talented gem-setters of the House to trim the watch with diamonds. But not just any regular ones. They opted to make use of baguette-cut diamonds that are incomparable in radiance and appeal. 

The Tank Louis Cartier gets a size upgrade for 2025
The Tank Louis Cartier gets a size upgrade for 2025

Adorning the case and buckle, the baguette-cut diamonds were painstakingly set and arranged perfectly, with bigger ones used for the lugs of the case.  A total of 154 baguette-cut diamonds were utilised for the entire watch, with 126 jewels for the case and 28 for the rhodium-finish white gold buckle, while a single brilliant-cut diamond was set in an inverted position on the heptagonal white gold crown. 

 

A bold and refined timepiece, the Santos de Cartier Baguette is a refreshing take on an old classic. Enriched in a remarkably appealing way, it bridges Cartier’s past with its present and takes it beyond the limits of time. 

Apart from the Santos de Cartier Baguette, Cartier also hones in on the art of metamorphosis which lies at the heart of the brand’s watchmaking adventure. Much like a magician, it enthrals and captivates the audience with its unparalleled offerings. Defying time and its appearances, the Maison greatly depends on the expertise and craftsmanship of its artisans. True alchemists, these skilled individuals are able to fashion metals and stones into beautiful objects of desire. With this in mind, Cartier takes us on a whimsical journey into the very depths of watchmaking, where beauty can be shaped and the imagination reigns supreme. 

The Tank à Guichets is offered in two styles, one loyal to the 1928 version, the other showing the apertures at an angle
The Tank à Guichets is offered in two styles, one loyal to the 1928 version, the other showing the apertures at an angle

For Watches and Wonders 2025, Cartier also shines a light on other classics such as the Tank, now available in a new size, as well as the Tank à Guichets, for which a special movement has been developed. Additionally, the Panthère undergoes a spectacular jewellery transformation, while the Tressage watch delights in its ravishing sculptural form. All of these embody the House’s mastery of design, technique, expertise and craftsmanship.

The Tressage watch, with its sculptural form, is a true work of art
The Tressage watch, with its sculptural form, is a true work of art
Crafted of yellow gold and diamonds, the Tressage watch is a beautiful accessory to behold
Crafted of yellow gold and diamonds, the Tressage watch is a beautiful accessory to behold

First in the line-up is the Tank Louis Cartier, now offered in a larger size. Through the years, this model has undergone changes and its lines have evolved. Created in 1922, it was the successor to the original Tank. With an elongated case, refined brancards, and a lovely rectangular shape, Cartier improves the design features of this watch by introducing it in a bigger version. Now more powerful as it is equipped with a next-generation mechanical Manufacture movement with automatic winding, the timepiece is available in both rose gold and yellow gold. 

 

In an innovative and interesting manner, the artisans of Cartier move on to present the time in an entirely new way with the Tank à Guichets. With its origins dating back to the 1920s, the novel version combines technique and design to offer an ingenious time display, similarly to what can be seen on a digital wristwatch.

 

Now further enhanced by the magic of creativity, the Tank à Guichets has been fitted with a specially developed calibre that enhances its precision. Gifted with a highly developed beating heart, the latest iteration translates magnificently to the present. Telling time through two small windows located at 12 o’clock for the hour and at 6 o’clock for the minutes, the updated design seemingly transcends time and space. 

The Panthère Jewellery watch in yellow gold brings the iconic panther to life
The Panthère Jewellery watch in yellow gold brings the iconic panther to life

Displaying true watchmaking expertise, Cartier exhibits the unlimited versatility of its manufacture with a number of Maison des Métiers d’Art pieces. These models bring the precision of rare craftsmanship to the miniature scale of their dials, such as the one showcased in the beautiful Tressage watch. A wonder to regard, the piece reflects the magic and flamboyance that are faithful to the Maison’s codes. A creative take on haute horology and haute joaillerie at the same time, the Tressage watch is made of sultry yellow gold that shines with the light. Featuring superlative volumes that take on a sculptural form, it is an elegant and utterly unique treasure to have and to hold.

 

Similarly highlighting the excellence and virtuosity of Cartier’s talented artisans is the Panthère Jewellery watch. The skilled craftspeople bring the beloved panther to life in a hybrid work of art; a watch and a piece of jewellery rolled into one. With incredible three-dimensional detail, the panther perches as if positioned out of thin air, or perhaps dangles precariously from a high cliff. Crafted in yellow gold, this architectural marvel portrays a hyper realistic rendering of the panther, complete with impressive details. Its eyes dazzle with tsavorites while its onyx nose exudes a quiet dignity. Opposite it, a delicate, almost miniscule watch, features a dial in black lacquer that is exquisitely framed by a glittering diamond-paved bezel. 

Bold yet feminine in every way, the Panthère de Cartier watch is a true representation of Cartier_s jewellery-making expertise
Bold yet feminine in every way, the Panthère de Cartier watch is a true representation of Cartier's jewellery-making expertise

The last model in the Watches and Wonders 2025 line-up is a true jewellery masterpiece. The Panthère de Cartier watch is embellished with an abstract coat that is a cross between a zebra and a tiger. This graphic composition draws the eye in and allows the observer to recognise distinct motifs in black and golden-brown lacquer.

 

The animal print aesthetic is further supplemented by the sprinkling of sparkling diamonds combined with luscious orange and yellow stones. Intricate as it is sublime, the incomparable Panthère de Cartier watch is a showcase of precise workmanship as detailed lacquer work and exceptional gem-setting were required in its creation.

 

With these novel offerings, Cartier honours the legacy of its historical pieces as it simultaneously breathes new life into them. Magical and breathtaking in scope, they serve as testaments to the unparalleled craftsmanship and knowhow of the manufacture. 

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Issue #96

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Summary

Cartier: Signature Creations in the Santos de Cartier Baguette

  • Cartier emphasizes the artistry and craftsmanship of its artisans in its new timepieces showcased at Watches & Wonders 2025.
  • The collection mixes heritage with contemporary design, featuring intricate techniques emblematic of Cartier's watchmaking traditions.
  • Standout pieces reinterpret iconic models, transforming dials into miniature artworks and showcasing open-worked movements.
  • These creations reflect Cartier's commitment to beauty and refinement, rooted in storytelling and timeless elegance.
  • Cartier invites collectors to view each timepiece as a work of art, crafted with skill that shapes the brand's legacy.