What’s the first thing that springs to mind when one hears New York? A concrete jungle, a melting pot, the city that never sleeps, you name it. New York is, undeniably, a state of mind. Building on this notion, Matthieu Blazy, whose debut collection for CHANEL still lingers in the collective imagination, has catalysed an entirely new universe anchored in the city’s urban sophistication. Enter CHANEL’s New York Minute, as embodied in the Métiers d’art 2026 collection.
It is a vision, however, that does not exist in isolation. No CHANEL show unfolds without a nod to Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. In 1931, while en route to Los Angeles at the invitation of studio executive Samuel Goldwyn, she made a detour through New York, where she found pleasure in seeing her designs echoed on the streets, albeit in non-original forms. She embraced it as flattery, finding validation in the authenticity her work inspired rather than in Hollywood’s elite.
It is this very spirit that sparked Blazy’s imagination, culminating in a rich display of artisanal craftsmanship. After all, the Métiers d’art concept was established by Karl Lagerfeld during his tenure at the house to pay homage to the savoir-faire behind CHANEL’s creations. The newly appointed Artistic Director reinvigorates this legacy with an audacious edge, signalling a shift within a maison long defined by its visual consistency.
Staying true to the concept, the Métiers d’art 2026 show was staged at the abandoned Bowery subway station. Even before the show began, the entire universe was infused with quintessential New York elements. From the crossword puzzle invitation, to an animated teaser of Coco Chanel walking her dog across the city’s landmarks, and a video featuring house ambassadors Margaret Qualley and A$AP Rocky shot around New York.
The allure continued on the platform—turned runway—as guests ooh-ed and aah-ed over Blazy’s celebration of New York eclecticism. Models paraded down the station in everything from an I ♥ New York tee to a double-C Superman emblem peeking from a partially opened shirt (a playful Clark Kent reference), a Graffiti tweed coat, a (big) apple minaudière, and a beaded skirt whose cut-outs reveal the silhouette of the New York City skyline.
Equally noteworthy are references to New York as an urban jungle. A zebra-patterned suit? Check. A shift dress with a leopard motif? Check. Another leopard print, in an Art Deco-inspired silhouette? Check. A crocodile leather coat? Check. A squirrel flap bag, complete with the fur tail? Check. Another flap with a gilded giraffe? Also check. Each is whimsical without appearing juvenile.
At its core lies a compelling paradox, bridging the rarefied world of haute couture and a spirit that feels inherently accessible. One might recall Karl Lagerfeld’s Vive La CHANEL or his supermarket show, in all their witty glory. At first glance, the collection appears pared-back, yet it is anything but.
Look closer, and the intricacies reveal themselves: in fabrics manipulated to deceive (such as a denim-look ensemble crafted entirely from silk), in an Art Deco-inspired piece adorned with fringed feathers that move with effortless ease, in an orange shift dress with frayed trims rendered into paillettes that echo CHANEL’s iconic tweed, and the list goes on.
It was all made possible by the artisans of le19M, the maison’s state-of-the-art atelier, where timeless savoir-faire is preserved for the future whilst weaving innovation throughout. A glimpse inside the distinguished workshops shows Lesage, celebrated for its mastery in embroidery and tweed, Lemarié, renowned for feathers and the beloved Camellia flowers, Maison Michel, responsible for exquisite millinery, Atelier Montex, specialising in innovative embroidery, Goossens, which brings CHANEL’s iconic jewellery to life through goldsmithing, and Massaro, famed for the iconic two-tone slingback.
This spirit carried through seamlessly into the show setting. Models cascaded down the subway stairs, paused at payphones, and moved to and from the MTA trains, before crossing paths in a finale that echoed the hustle and bustle of rush hour in the city that never sleeps. It was a multisensory delight from beginning to end, enough to pledge allegiance to CHANEL. Ultimately, the collection spoke to a woman who values luxury not only for its refinement, but for how effortlessly it can be lived in.
