Watches & Wonders: Unveiling a Monumental Tribute to Timekeeping in Geneva

Watches & Wonders is back with the most unparalleled experiences to date
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One finally grasps the true essence of the “wonders” in Watches and Wonders—it’s not just the timepieces behind glass, but the thoughtfully curated booths and immersive experiences that elevate the entire event, setting a new standard for what a watch fair can—and should—be. Since its debut in Geneva in 2022, Watches and Wonders has swiftly transformed into the most coveted gathering in the horology world.

In 2025, the fair returned with its biggest instalment yet. It brought together the most esteemed Maisons, a slew of exciting new players, and pioneering innovations. With record-breaking visitors and a star-studded roster of attendees, this year’s edition was nothing short of monumental. This remarkable edition once again set the stage for unveiling groundbreaking novelties that continue to shape the future of horology. 

MAIN PHOTO_ Held at Palexpo Exhibition Centre, Watches and Wonders 2025 brought together 60 prestigious brands, its largest showcase to date
Held at Palexpo Exhibition Centre, Watches and Wonders 2025 brought together 60 prestigious brands, its largest showcase to date

Suffice it to say, Watches and Wonders is a ground where speculations about the novelties are either confirmed or disproven. True or not, the fair never fails to deliver thrilling surprises that often exceed expectations. Each year brings something entirely fresh and distinct from the last, including this fifth edition, where no detail goes unnoticed.

One of the most notable highlights of Watches and Wonders 2025 is the commemorative pieces to mark the anniversaries or major milestones of many of Switzerland’s storied watchmakers. For its 160th anniversary, Zenith unveiled three blue ceramic chronographs—Pilot Big Date Flyback, Defy Skyline Chronograph, and Chronomaster Sport—each marked as a ‘160th Anniversary Edition’ and showcasing the brand’s signature hue.

The tribute continued with the Zenith G.F.J., which honoured founder Georges Favre-Jacot and featured the revived Calibre 135 manual movement. CHANEL took a similar approach, marking the 25th anniversary of the J12 with nine distinct iterations in high-resistance Bleu ceramic, aptly named J12 Bleu.

Another trio can be seen in the Bell & Ross BR-03 Skeleton line-up to celebrate the model’s 20th anniversary. Hublot also marked two exceptional decades of its iconic chronograph with the Big Bang Anniversary Limited Editions—five timepieces blending the original’s bold design with the technical evolution of the Unico series.

This year’s edition spotlighted youth innovation and cultural exploration through student-led projects and hands-on workshops
This year’s edition spotlighted youth innovation and cultural exploration through student-led projects and hands-on workshops

Roger Dubuis paid tribute to its 30th anniversary with the Excalibur Grande Complication and Biretrograde Calendar showcasing its founder’s signature display. On the other hand, Vacheron Constantin marked its 270th anniversary with the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication La Première—an extraordinary creation featuring 41 complications in a single piece.

The next highlight is the prominent Formula 1 theme, showcased across both booths and novelties, with various names embracing the motorsport spirit. TAG Heuer marked its return as Formula 1 Official Timekeeper with the exclusive Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 and the revamped Formula 1 Solargraph, now part of the permanent collection.

In parallel, TUDOR made waves with the Black Bay Ceramic Blue—launched alongside its sponsorship of the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls (VCARB) Formula One Team. Meanwhile, in the fictional motorsport realm, IWC Schaffhausen unveiled three new Pilot’s Chronographs to celebrate its role as the official team watch of the APXGP team in the upcoming Formula 1 film, starring Brad Pitt.

As far as trends go, Watches and Wonders 2025 balanced heritage and technical mastery with a more expressive and inclusive direction. This was evidenced by Rolex, which refreshed the Oyster Perpetual with pastel dials, NORQAIN, which introduced the Wild ONE Skeleton and Independence in a range of vibrant hues, all featuring skeletonised movements and bracelets, and the Baume & Mercier Riviera in warm silver, ice blue, and pink.

A record-breaking crowd of over 55,000 visitors filled Palexpo as Watches and Wonders Geneva saw a 12_ rise in attendance from last year_s edition
A record-breaking crowd of over 55,000 visitors filled Palexpo as Watches and Wonders saw a 12% rise in attendance from last year’s edition

Stone dials took centre stage at the exhibition, with notable releases such as the Rolex GMTMaster II featuring a Tiger Iron dial, a natural blend of Tiger’s Eye, red jasper, and haematite. Concurrently, Chopard launched 12 L’Heure du Diamant pieces, each featuring a unique hardstone dial that you can choose from every month of the year. Piaget continues the trend with the new Andy Warhol models, featuring lustrous opal, tiger’s eye, and meteorite dials.

Other notable highlights include the comeback of Cartier Tank à Guichet, reaffirming the Maison’s status as a watchmaker of shape. You can also see many plays on bracelet designs in various materials and finishes, from the flat Jubilee bracelet seen on the Rolex Land-Dweller, the Settimo bracelet for Rolex Perpetual 1908, the Milanese bracelet for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds, and the Piaget Sixtie’s integrated bracelet.

Lest we forget, Panerai’s ‘Innovation from the Depths’ themed booth illustrated the brand’s commitment to delivering top-tier dive watches, as seen in the Luminor Marina with enhanced Super-LumiNova® X2, while also showcasing the Jupiterium—an astronomical clock inspired by Galileo Galilei.

As part of the “In The City” programme, Watchmaking Village spotlighted SwissSkills 2025—celebrating emerging talent in watchmaking and the art of microtechnology_
As part of the “In The City” programme, Watchmaking Village spotlighted SwissSkills 2025— celebrating emerging talent in watchmaking and the art of microtechnology

Lending glamour and global appeal, a host of international celebrities also graced the booths of their respective partners, from tennis legend Roger Federer at the Rolex booth, Korean actress Gianna Jun at Piaget, to Jamaican sprint icon Usain Bolt at Hublot, Mandarin pop star Jay Chou at TUDOR, to Bridgerton’s Simone Ashley at IWC.

Not only did this fifth instalment unveil horological marvels, it also marked notable changes and fresh experiences. One of the most significant was the leadership shift, with Cyrille Vigneron, CEO of Cartier, taking over as Chairman from Rolex’s Jean-Frédéric Dufour, alongside the inclusion of CHANEL, Hermès, and LVMH on the Foundation board.

This year’s edition also placed a strong emphasis on youth and cultural exploration. The LAB’s student-led innovations and the Watchmaking Village’s workshops invited the next generation to experience the craft firsthand, while the cultural programming included Fred Merz’s photographic journey and a documentary on farmer-watchmakers. With its blend of innovation, heritage, and immersive storytelling, this year’s Watches and Wonders didn’t just celebrate timekeeping—it brought the art of horology to life.

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Issue #97

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Summary

Watches & Wonders: Unveiling a Monumental Tribute to Timekeeping in Geneva