There is something remarkably consistent about the people of Panerai. Whether speaking with its watchmakers in Neuchâtel, its executives at Watches and Wonders, or its leadership team over the years, the conversation always comes back to the same idea: identity. This marks our third interview with Jérôme Cavadini, Chief Operating Officer of Panerai, and what remains unchanged is not just his enthusiasm, but his unwavering belief in what the Maison stands for. Rather than chasing trends, every decision—whether in design, engineering or manufacturing—is guided by a single question: Is it still unmistakably Panerai?
That philosophy is evident throughout the company. From the Laboratorio di Idee, where new materials and movements are developed while staying true to the brand’s DNA, to an operational culture that values long-term reliability, reflected in Panerai’s eight-year warranty. As Jérôme explains in the conversation that follows, complexity should remain hidden beneath the dial, while the wearer experiences clarity, confidence and effortless usability. It is this rare combination of technical ambition, creative discipline and genuine passion that have defined the Maison for decades.
Panerai’s watches have always felt purpose-built, almost like professional instruments. How do you preserve that functional DNA while responding to today’s increasingly lifestyle-driven audience?
One of the principles Emmanuel Perrin, Chief Executive Officer of Panerai, always reminds us of is, “We have to be what we are.“ Whatever the latest trends may be, we cannot lose sight of our identity. If fluorescent colours suddenly became the biggest fashion trend, we wouldn’t simply follow it. People choose Panerai because they appreciate clean dials, robust construction, reliability, and the history behind the Maison. Those qualities should remain timeless.
I bought my own PAM00058 back in 2004. I still wear it on weekends, and most people would never guess it’s more than 20 years old. That’s exactly what we strive for. Of course, we pay close attention to changing lifestyles and evolving customer needs, particularly when it comes to functionality and pricing. But every new model we introduce must remain faithful to Panerai’s heritage.
In an industry built on centuries of tradition, where do you allow yourself to take risks?
When it comes to design, we’re relatively cautious because preserving our identity is essential. We won’t suddenly produce a 32 mm watch simply because it’s fashionable. We take measured risks, but always within the framework of our DNA. Where we are much bolder is in materials and complications. What people see today is the result of countless experiments behind the scenes. For every successful innovation, there are many others that never make it to production. Some prove too expensive, others impossible to machine or decorate, while some simply don’t meet international regulations. Innovation naturally comes with failure. That’s part of the process. But when it comes to protecting the Panerai identity, the tolerance for risk is virtually zero.
How do you ensure that operational excellence never comes at the expense of creativity?
The key is identifying challenges as early as possible. Every project goes through several development phases before reaching production. During those stages, we often discover unexpected obstacles. That’s why development is rarely linear. New discoveries constantly reshape your plans. By contrast, when we’re working with proven materials like steel and established movements, the process becomes much more predictable. There are still design iterations, but far fewer technical unknowns. For highly complicated projects, development can easily take five, six or even seven years.
Among this year’s novelties, which creations make you particularly proud?
Two stand out. The first is the new Luminor 31 Giorni PAM01631 with a power reserve of 31 days. It’s an extraordinary technical achievement with very few direct competitors, particularly at this level of accessibility. The second is our work with hafnium for the Submersible Navy Seals AfniotechTM Experience PAM01089. This material was developed through a collaboration between Panerai and the Richemont Research team.
Hafnium itself is an exceptionally rare element, traditionally used in military and nuclear applications because of its remarkable resistance to corrosion and radiation. When we first had the opportunity to obtain a small quantity, we immediately began exploring its potential for watchmaking. Today, we’ve created the world’s first watch made from 95% pure hafnium. It has a distinctive blue-grey appearance, exceptional density and a unique tactile quality. It’s the result of years of research, experimentation and persistence, and it’s something we’re incredibly proud to share.
