Beyond the beige carpet at Watches and Wonders 2026 lies a world many yearn to enter, one filled with an ocean of CHANEL’s hidden treasures. For this year’s highly anticipated Haute Horlogerie event, CHANEL astounds its audience with an exhibit of horological innovations. Designed across different pillars, namely Mademoiselle Privé Bouton Lion, Monsieur Lion Tourbillon Black Edition, Nœud de Camélia, J12, Coco Game Capsule and Première, each timepiece celebrates different facets of the Maison and its founder, Gabrielle Chanel.
Mademoiselle Privé Bouton Lion
The Mademoiselle Privé Bouton Lion stars the symbolic lion that has long graced CHANEL’s previous works. Known as the Mademoiselle’s astrological sign, the fearless feline represents power and protection. Its impeccable sculpture makes for a charming view on the Mademoiselle Privé Bouton Lion long necklace and ring, both of which tuck the time away underneath the lion-clad button.
While the centrepieces are perched on different foundations—an 18-carat yellow gold chain or ring—the essence of the collection remains the same. At the heart of each jewellery piece is a black lacquered button featuring a yellow gold lion. Framed by a ring of diamonds, the button turns to reveal the hidden timepiece: a black-lacquered dial embraced by a diamond-set bezel and yellow gold chain. For the necklace, the gold chain is accented by onyx tubes and brilliant-cut diamonds. A pompon set with said gems can also be seen dangling from the bouton, bringing a subtle sense of movement to the design.
Monsieur Lion Tourbillon Black Edition
The CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio has crafted a special novelty in time for Watches and Wonders 2026, a stellar timepiece by the name of Monsieur Lion Tourbillon Black Edition. At 42 mm in diameter, the model exudes a mysterious allure made possible by the ceramic case and all-black palette. The foundation of its appeal lies in the flying tourbillon located at 6 o’clock, which features the emblematic lion.
This laser-engraved titanium sculpture, as well as the remaining functions of the watch, are brought to life by CHANEL’s Calibre 5.1. Oscillating at 28,800 vph, the manual-wound movement has a 72-hour power reserve. Outside from the tourbillon, some of the movement’s components can be seen peeking through the black openwork dial. Paired with a sporty black nylon strap, this edition of CHANEL’s dashing Monsieur Lion Tourbillon is limited to just 55 pieces worldwide.
Nœud de Camélia
It is a truth universally known that Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel is a beacon of Haute Couture. Hence it is only natural that even the next new novelties, such as the Nœud de Camélia, be equal parts horology and couture. Akin to Gabrielle Chanel’s incorporation of white camellias on black jackets, the collection comprises monochromatic jewellery pieces that feature the said flower. At first glance, one would hardly assume that four of the five lavish pieces would turn out to be Haute Horlogerie.
Pinned onto black grosgrain, embroidered by Lesage, or rendered in a diamond-studded 18-carat white gold “bow”, the camellia blooms joyfully at the centre of the collection’s Cuff, Embroidered Cuff, Diamonds Cuff, and Diamonds Ring. Outlined by a black lacquer trim, each white gold petal is filled to the brim with brilliant-cut or baguette-cut diamonds. The innermost ring of petals detaches to unveil a hidden black-lacquered or brilliant-cut diamond-set dial.
The fifth and final piece of the collection, Nœud de Diamants, is the only design to not feature the camellia, but showcases CHANEL’s gem-setting forte even more. Artisans at Métiers d’Art meticulously set thousands of brilliant-cut diamonds within the black-lacquered trims of the bow. To enhance its opulence, the unique piece is topped with a 5.23 carat Asscher-cut diamond at the centre tie of the bow, which conceals the high precision quartz timepiece beneath.
The J12
Twenty-six years after its release, the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio has showcased different facets of its modern timepiece. This year, the Maison presented an array of new personalities for the J12 timepiece. For the 28 mm format, collectors now get to explore the essential J12 design in highly resistant black- or white-lacquered ceramic, the former of which is also offered with a grosgrain-inspired black rubber strap. The 28 mm timepieces are also joined by the J12 Golden Black, which is also presented in 42 mm.
Unlike the former J12 variations, these limited edition timepieces combine polished or matt black ceramic with yellow gold-plated indicators and details. In addition to the J12 Golden Black, Watches and Wonders 2026 also saw the return of a beloved timepiece: the J12 Superleggera. Made available in 42 mm, this automotive-inspired timepiece is now presented in matt black ceramic and steel.
Apart from the 28 and 42 mm formats, CHANEL also presented a series of J12 timepieces in 38 and 33 mm. These new additions to the collection are made exclusively in matt blue ceramic. The enchanting hue not only shines a new light to the collection but resonates with Gabrielle Chanel’s adoration for the jersey fabric since 1914.
The dazzling J12 Diamonds Tourbillon Calibre 5 (38 mm) and the J12 28 mm Diamonds are limited edition timepieces that are just as luxurious as they are functional. Whilst the entirety of the latter is covered in Gabrielle Chanel’s beloved baguette-cut diamonds, the larger timepiece also showcases CHANEL’s Calibre 5, a powerful 4 Hz movement that blends seamlessly into its surrounding gems. Merging past and present visions, the Maison has united Gabrielle Chanel’s impeccable touches with the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio’s explorations in the most elegant ways.
