Twenty five years ago, CHANEL made waves in the world of haute horology when it presented the J12 in black ceramic. A novel offering from the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio, the timepiece demonstrated the Maison’s ability to transform the ceramic material into a precious metal suitable to encase its new icon. Not only that, it also shone a light on the meticulous efforts undertaken by the brand to formulate the deepest black tone for the watch.
This year, CHANEL once again showcases its mastery of ceramic with the new J12 BLEU. For the first time ever, the renowned timepiece is crafted out of matt blue ceramic. A wonderful addition to the legacy of the J12, it gives rise to the unparalleled creativity and savoir-faire of the CHANEL Watch Manufacture.
The J12 BLEU are available in nine different limited edition versions. The first two come in 38 mm and 33 mm diameter sizes. Dubbed the J12 B BLEU Calibre 12.1 38 mm and the J12 B BLEU Calibre 12.2 33 mm, respectively, the timepieces feature sumptuous blue dials, adorned with rich blue baguette-cut sapphires for hour markers. Both feature black-coated steel fixed bezels and matt blue highly resistant ceramic rings with a novel baguette-cut pattern. They are equipped with Calibre 12.1 for the 38 mm and Calibre 12.2 for the 33 mm. The movements are black-coated and made in the Swiss Kenissi Manufacture, co-owned by CHANEL. The larger iteration boasts a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, while the smaller one has a 50-hour power reserve. The models come with a sapphire crystal case back with a Limited Edition marking denoting their special standing.
Completing the line-up are the: J12 B BLEU Calibre 12.1 38 mm with black varnished indicators, J12 BLEU Calibre 12.2 33 mm with brilliant-cut diamond hour markers, J12 BLEU Diamond Tourbillon limited to 55 pieces, J12 BLEU X-ray with 12 numbered pieces, J12 BLEU 42 mm Sapphires watch and J12 BLEU 28 mm Sapphires watch, both offered in 12 pieces, as well as the J12 BLEU 38 mm Sapphires watch that is limited to 100 pieces.
CHANEL Savoir-Faire
The J12 BLEU takes its cues from the original timepiece, as well as the white version, which was unveiled in 2003. But this time, CHANEL explores a whole new depth of colour. In an effort to create a truly fresh model, the CHANEL Watch Manufacture spent a total of five years in developing the J12 BLEU’s exclusive shade. Although blue has always been part of the Maison’s colour palette, ever present in its fashion, beauty, and even jewellery accoutrements, it wanted to present an entirely contemporary hue. The result is a deep and intense blue that is powerful and provocative. Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio, explains the inspiration behind it, “I dreamt of giving a colour to black, of illuminating it with blue. The final choice of this particular blue was like an epiphany. I wanted a blue that has a rigorous elegance, a blue that is nearly black or a black that is nearly blue.”
The process, of course, was more complex than just pinpointing a colour as the manufacture had to incorporate it into the scratchproof, highly resistant and durable ceramic. The success of this endeavour is a strong demonstration of CHANEL’s absolute mastery of the material and its production techniques, “In the course of 25 years, CHANEL has elevated ceramic to the level of a precious material. The art of ceramic is undeniably CHANEL watchmaking and our outstanding savoir-faire: it is an inspiring material that, thanks to the genius of our engineers, offers a vast creative playing field,” said Chastaingt.
Similarly, the J12 BLEU would not be a CHANEL timepiece without the distinct aesthetic synonymous with the Maison. For its new offerings, it taps on its watchmaking workshop to adorn the watches with the appropriate embellishments. For some of the models, this required fashioning the ceramic into a baguette-cut pattern, while others demanded the use of other materials, complications, or additional trimmings, including diamonds and sapphires.
Having mastered innumerable gem-setting techniques, the workshop was more than ready to fulfil the artistic vision of the Creation Studio. With full control over the entire manufacturing process, CHANEL was able to see the production of the J12 BLEU from start to finish. Furthermore, the House was able to painstakingly select each vibrant natural blue sapphire, paying close attention to each one’s radiance and the striking contrast they create with the matt blue ceramic.
For the J12 BLEU Sapphires watch, for example, CHANEL chose a total of 58 bright blue baguette-cut sapphires to adorn the bezel and indicators of the timepiece. The natural gems were specifically chosen to match the deep blue of the ceramic case. Not one to compromise on quality, CHANEL is resolute in ensuring that each step in production is carried out very carefully. In fact, for the J12 BLEU Sapphires watch, the manufacture invested approximately seven hours to meticulously set each of the 46 sapphires into the watch bezel. This marvellous management of precious elements is an outstanding confirmation of the House’s prowess in gem-pairing and setting.
With the new J12 BLEU timepieces, CHANEL continues its fascinating exploration into the world of coloured ceramic. Not only does this latest line of watches showcase its impeccable expertise in the art of watchmaking, it also displays the Maison’s unparalleled commitment to creativity and innovation in the field.
